Monday, October 19, 2015

Ti Mancherai, ti voglio bene Firenze


2nd October

Il barista nel mio bar locale conosce il mio ordine di caffè; Sono conosce di vista l'antiquario che ha sempre fumando sul marciapiede all'ingresso al mio appartamento. Anche il duo che fanno il giro di tutte le piazze di serenata con canzoni classiche italiane sulla fisarmonica e chitarra so che sarò sempre dare loro un paio di euro.Mi mancheranno sentire le campane dell'Angelus ogni pomeriggio come mi siedo a fare i compiti. Mi mancheranno vedo gli tramonto da Ponta Santa Trinita. Mi mancheranno tutti gli italiani sulle loro biciclette, nonostante loro vogliono mi schiacciar. Non posso credere che questo sogno di vivere a Firenze per un breve soggiorno è finita. 

The barista in my local bar knows my coffee order, I'm on nodding terms with the antique dealer who's always smoking on the footpath outside his shop next to the entrance to my apartment. Even the duo who make the rounds of all the piazze to serenade with their versions of Italian classics on accordion and guitar know they can rely on me for a couple of euro.
I know where the best fruit is, the best gelati (Piazza della Passera), the best pastries (Dolce & Dolcezze) I hardly ever get lost in the maze of tiny vie, vicoli, chiassi, borgi and piazze, I even have a hairdresser. I can't believe my Fiorentina adventure is over, that I won't hear the bells of the Angelus as I sit doing homework or reading. While the next few weeks hold some wonderful destinations across Italy, this lovely interlude is over. 

Of course it hasn't all been wine and roses (well lots of wine, no roses, except those offered by touts at every restaurant to every couple) With little notice the school changed classes from morning to afternoon in the third week when David joined me, throwing in to disarray some of our plans. Then we both got sick and I missed three days of my last week.
My charming apartment senza vista was feeling a bit claustrophobic by the fifth week and the idea that I would find a space to study and read was stymied by the fact that there are very few public spaces with places to sit and work which don't charge.

While the Fiorentine lifestyle certainly appeals, some of the Fiorentini don't. There is a certain arrogance about them, particularly men, a lack of warmth which I had heard about before arriving but which I didn't want to prejudge them on. Being a bloody-minded Australian woman I walked out of shops several times when the proprietor seemed completely disinterested in serving me. The first time the young bartender in my local cafe slopped my prosecco all over my glass as he plonked it down in front of me I gave him  the benefit of the doubt, but by the third time I had to ask, is there something I've done to offend you, or do you just hate your job?

I would recommend this adventure to anyone who is serious about learning a language, but if I were to do it again purely for language learnng, I would choose a different city. Much as I love Florence I think the learning experience would be enhanced by living in a city a little less tourist-focused, with fewer English speakers. Which is not to say I won't be back, I certainly will. The dream was to spend a month in Florence learning the language:tick. Next dream, finding some way to come and live in the city for 6 months. I've checked out a few apartments, I've got contacts in the city, now I just have to find a way to justify it!

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